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Guanciale is a pig's cheek that has been cured in a mixture of salt, sugar and spices then air-dried for about a month.

Like fatty bacon, this Italian delicacy is essential for a truly authentic spaghetti carbonara and other Roman pasta dishes.

For years I have tried to source guanciale in Toronto, but always came up empty.

Then Rob Mifsud, author of the deliciously entertaining food blog HungryInHogtown.com, discovered that guanciale was available at Macelleria Venezia (906 Bloor St. W., 416-531-2522), a tiny Italian butcher around the corner from Ossington subway station.

Macelleria Venezia has been making guanciale in limited quantities, only in winter, for almost 50 years. It's a gnarly looking piece of charcuterie that weighs around a pound and a half and costs about $6.50. You need a sharp serrated knife to saw through the tough layer of pigskin, which should be trimmed and discarded along with any rind.

I have made the following pasta recipe at least a dozen times with pancetta, and was blown away by the sweet porky flavour from the inaugural rendition using guanciale. I should also mention that canned Italian San Marzano tomatoes melt into the most sublime sauce and are actually worth their exorbitant price.

 

Bucatini all'Amatriciana

Yield: 4 main-course servings

1 tbsp olive oil

6 oz guanciale or pancetta, cut into small strips

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 tsp chili flakes

1 (28 oz) can whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano

1 lb dried Italian bucatini or perciatelli

1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving

salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot or skillet, heat the olive oil over a medium-high heat and add the guanciale.

Cook until it is just starting to crisp and brown at the edges. Remove the guanciale with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onions to the rendered fat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and golden, about eight minutes.

While the onions are cooking, pour the entire can of tomatoes into a medium bowl. Gently squish all the tomatoes with your hands, taking care not to splatter yourself.

When the onions are done, add the garlic and chili flakes and cook for another minute. Add the bowl of tomatoes and their juices along with the guanciale. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and tastes delicious, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep over the lowest heat while you cook the pasta.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, season generously with salt and add the pasta.

When the pasta is al dente, drain in a colander and add it to the sauce. Stir until the pasta and sauce are well acquainted, about two minutes. Toss with the cheese, check for seasoning and serve with additional cheese and the pepper mill.